Installing a New Shower Unit
An effective shower setup requires mindful planning and a lot of work. In most cases, you will need to do three kinds of jobs: framing walls, setting up the plumbing, and ending up walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you must pick the type of shower that you want to set up. It is necessary to ascertain whether the picked shower can managing certain systems and can control a safe level of water through the boiler. A lot of shower systems nowadays are developed to be versatile to different water pressures (such as saved warm water and cold mains).
It is also important to take into account the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drain for the shower
Different Kinds of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The hose pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower system can be linked to the bath tap as per your requirement, and the water temperature level can be changed via the taps. Push-on mixers are cheap and exceptionally simple to set up. However, although the pipe connection is simple, it is quickly removed. In addition, it is troublesome to adjust the temperature.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The pipe and spray of this kind of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be changed through the bath taps. It is an extremely inexpensive option and no extra plumbing is involved. However, the bath/shower mixers likewise struggle with inconvenient temperature control alternatives.
Manual Mixer: The pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower unit are a part of the wall unit and the cold and hot water products are connected to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are managed through either one or a range of knobs (in more pricey showers). Although temperature control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more costly than the formerly pointed out mixers. They also need extra plumbing of hot and cold water system pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The hose and spray of this shower type belong of the wall system and the hot and cold water products are connected to a single valve here too. It is total with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to avoid it from ending up being too hot. One of the biggest advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes hassle-free temperature level control. However, it is the most costly of the different mixer options.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single system containing a powerful electric pump that is capable of changing both the water pressure fix-it right plumbing and temperature level. This type of shower can be fitted if there is water system from a cold water tank and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the adjustment of both pressure and temperature simple. On the other hand, it disagrees for water warmed directly by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is important to keep in mind that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure needs to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system enables the temperature and pressure to be changed through a knob. Models with temperature stabilisers are much better as they remain untouched by other taps somewhere else in usage within the home. A major disadvantage of electric showers is that the control knob only allows for the alternative of heats at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a greater pressure. This is bothersome in the winter season when the spray is often weak and the mains water is colder. Nevertheless, this problem is taken on in some designs which are readily available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the kind of shower you want to install, the shower head must either be suited order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it must have a check valve.
Before beginning, it is suggested to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to prepare the pipe-work involved. In addition, the drain system to get rid of the drainage will require to be prepared. Both positions of the cable path and the shower switch will likewise need to be considered if an instant or electrical shower unit is being installed.
Use the guideline guide offered with the shower unit to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will provide the water to the shower system, it is important to cut off the water system. In order to secure the pipelines, they should be given a waterproof covering and also fitted with separating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the general fix-it right plumbing professionals look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the main shower control to the pipes that will be providing the water (This might require a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water supply and test the pipelines for any leaks, as some might need tightening.
If you are setting up an electrical shower, remember to switch off the electrical power supply before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have been made (there must be assistance within the user's manual), the power supply can be changed back on.
The cold water tank can be lifted to a higher height (sometimes as low as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden support beneath it-- perhaps made up of struts and blockboards. If you select this alternative, the main and distribution pipelines will likewise have to be raised to fulfill the new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it should be connected into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to utilize 15mm diameter supply pipes, and make the runs to the shower as brief and straight as possible so regarding preserve maximum pressure and minimise heat loss. Additionally, by minimising making use of elbows for pipe corners, you can decrease the resistance in the circulation of the supply of water. You can achieve this by flexing the pipes instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaking or ignoring local code restrictions.
# Using pipelines that are too small.
# Connecting copper to galvanized without utilizing a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.
# Not utilizing tape or pipeline compound at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your components when setting up them.
# Not installing an air space filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too brief to install the shutoff valves onto after the finished wall remains in place.
# Not effectively lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will trigger a leak.)
# When turning the water back on in your house, always run the outside tube valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can trigger problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.